Like starting a fire, mixing a signature cocktail, and changing a tire, cooking the perfect steak is a skill that every man must have in his daily life. The problem is, every alpha male also thinks his steak is the best.
To really back up that claim, you’d need to be able to give an effusive description of different types of steak, why feed affects flavour and how the maturation process works. Yes, you’d have to serve up a cut of meat that tastes better than sex. Below, some of the UK’s best butchers and steak chefs explain it all, giving you a box of reusable dinner party ammunition to last a lifetime.
Choose Your Cut
Shop
Choosing what to serve starts at the butcher’s door. “Take a moment to think about your shop. It should smell sweet, the displays should be clean, and so should the staff. A butcher who takes pride in his appearance will inevitably apply these principles to his work,” says Richard Turner, group chef at Hawksmoor, one of Britain’s best steakhouses.
Chat
The key is to show a little interest. Butchers are enthusiastic guys — they’re more than happy to chat about the types of steaks they offer. “Ask what breed the animal is, where it was raised, what it ate, how old it was when it was slaughtered, how long it’s been hanging, and most importantly — if he’s tasted it and can recommend it,” Turner says. “Start the conversation like a first date. This is a lifelong relationship you’re after.”
Choose
Unlike chicken and pork, steak is a meat about which you can tell a lot about its flavour just by looking at it. There are plenty of visual clues: “You want a deep red colour, which indicates it has been dry-aged,” says Grant Martin of boutique butcher Parson’s Nose in London.
“The outside edge of the fat should be slightly darker. This indicates that the fat has cooked and that blood, along with oxygen, has traveled through the meat, causing lactic acid to build up, which adds to the meat’s flavor. Steaks that are sold too fresh after being killed are bright pink and have a very bland flavor that makes them unpalatable.”
While you’ll never get the same quality or level of advice in a supermarket, you can apply the same principles. Don’t feel bad about touching it through the plastic. If you poke at it and it shows fingerprints and feels wet and soft, it hasn’t been properly aged.
Feed
Happy cows that eat grass taste better than those that eat grain. It also means they grew up outdoors for most of their lives, enjoying the sunshine. “Yellow fat is a good thing,” says Jonny Farrell, head butcher at Jimmy’s Farm. “This is because the cows absorb carotene when they eat grass. The best steaks I’ve ever had were from 18-year-old retired cows, and they had an amazing deep amber color.”
Marble
Marbling—the tie-dye-like white patterns in the meat—is key to flavor. “You want the marbling to be evenly distributed throughout the steak,” Martin says. “Any marbling near the outside of the cut is a sign that it was fattened quickly before slaughter. If the meat is too dark, dark black or red, that can be a sign that the animal was stressed before slaughter, and the meat will taste tough.”
The Basics of Cooking Steak
The most important thing when cooking steak (or any other meat) is to make sure it is at room temperature before heating it, a process called “tempering.” Precooking for 30 minutes gives you a perfect steak weighing 350 grams and 4 cm thick.
“Seasoning before cooking is a common mistake because it draws out moisture,” says Michael Reid, chef at M Restaurants. “You need a pan that’s so hot it’s smoking and you can’t put your hands around it. Put it in the pan and leave it alone—if it’s hot enough, it won’t stick. Season the side facing up generously with Maldon sea salt and fresh black pepper.”
“When the steak starts to take on a nice color, add a couple of knobs of butter to the pan and turn down the heat. Tilt the pan and spoon out the melted butter. Try to cover the steak with this liquid—it adds flavor,” Reed says. “After three minutes, flip and sear for medium-rare, then repeat on the other side. Add a sprig of thyme to flavor the butter.”
Then let it rest. Resting is crucial for cooking all types of steak because it gives it time to redistribute moisture and create the juicy, buttery texture you want. “A simple rule is to let it rest for a while during the cooking process,” Reed says. “Wrap it loosely on a cutting board with some foil so it doesn’t lose too much heat.”
Types of steak
Quick Jump: Rump| Rib-eye steak| Sirloin steak| Fillet steak| T-bone or porterhouse steak| Rump or goose belly| Sirloin or flank steak| Grilled steak| Chateaubriand steak
Hips
Also known as: In France, they call it a culotte (literally, “trousers”), while in the United States, they call it a sirloin (confusingly).
Established: On the back of the animal. What to look for: Since the rump is leaner, you won’t see much marbling—it works better in the rump than other cuts—but be sure to cut against the grain. The rump needs to hang long enough for the flavor to develop, at least 22 days. The ideal size is about two inches thick.
taste: The best value for money everyday steak. Rich in flavor, but as it is a workable cut, it requires extra care when cooking and cannot be cooked rare.
How to cook: You need to fry it for at least three minutes per side and coat it well with oil. Since this is a muscular piece of meat, you need to use the heat and fat to break down the fibers to ensure the meat is tender. Resting is also important here.
Rib Eye
Also known as: Spencer is very popular in the United States and generally serves bone-in dishes.
Established: Located on the front ribs of the cow. The ribeye meat is from the sixth rib to the twelfth rib.
What to look for: A good example should have clear marbled texture and a layer of fat running through the middle. A large patch of fat in the corner indicates skilled butchering and aids in cooking.
taste: Its fat content brings out the flavor. “It’s our most popular meat,” says Hawksmoor’s Turner. “It’s great for grilling because it has a slightly smoky flavor.”
How to cook: Since this is a minimally processed cut of meat, you can get it medium rare. Heat the pan to the temperature you think it will be cooked through and sear for another 30 seconds. If it doesn’t sizzle while searing, it’s not hot enough.
sirloin steak
Established: Start at the mid-back of the beast, covering the spine.
What to look for: Sirloin responds extremely well to aging. Some butchers will age sirloin for up to 60 days to give it an extra beefy flavor. This type of steak has a deep red color, but don’t accept any steak with a green, almost stringy sediment as this means the steak has begun to spoil.
taste: Legend has it that King James I was so impressed by the cut of meat that he named it “Sir Loin” in 1617, and the name has stuck ever since. The good balance of fat and muscle means it’s easier to get that melt-in-your-mouth texture. “Even if you don’t like fat, always cook with it,” says Martin of Parson’s Nose. “Let it work, then cut it off after cooking if you really need to.”
How to cook: You need to properly sauté the fat, which means using a very hot pan. Continue sautéing until the fat is golden brown across the entire width of the steak. Choose medium-rare, medium-rare, or well-done, just make sure it sits in the pan for the same amount of time as the steak.
fillet
Also known as: It is called Filet Mignon in the United States and Filet du Boeuf in France.
Established: Located inside the sirloin, it runs along the side of the animal’s spine.
What to look for: You won’t see any marbling here – this muscle isn’t being used at all. You want deep cuts of similar width so that it cooks at an even rate.
taste: This is the leanest and most expensive cut of meat and is a favorite among gym-goers. However, it lacks fat and has a lighter flavor, and it does not benefit from being hung or aged because there is no fat to break down. It pairs well with fatty sauces like Diane or Pepperoni.
How to cook: Cook it to rare or medium rare over medium heat and well oiled. Be careful not to overcook it as it is very lean and the fibers tighten up and can easily become tough.
T-bone or porterhouse steak
Established: The lower middle part of the animal. It is part sirloin and part fillet, with the two parts separated by a “T” of bone.
What to look for: This cut requires skilled cutting techniques, so make sure each piece looks even and clean. A good steak should have straight lines and be of moderate size.
taste: The best of both worlds. The leanness of the fillet contrasts nicely with the fat of the sirloin. Have your largest pan ready.
How to cook: Two different cuts of meat require different cooking times so this can be a bit tricky. It’s best to ask your butcher to leave the bones in. Sear the whole piece of meat in a hot pan and then bake it in a 200°C oven for 10 minutes to ensure all the pieces are fully cooked and tender.
Bavette or Goose Skirt
Also known as: Flanked by the United States and France.
Established: The end of the inner loin, just above the liver and kidneys, covers the abdomen.
What to look for: An even, flat slice of meat with an almost rope-like texture and even marbling. You can expect great value for money as the UK is only just beginning to adopt this practice.
taste: This is undoubtedly the best tasting cut of meat when cooked properly. The fat and muscle tissue blend perfectly to create a flavorful, meaty steak that is perfect for grilling.
How to cook: Marinate overnight to make the meat more tender. Try olive oil, soy sauce, lime juice, salt and cilantro, then place it in a freezer bag and place in the fridge. Bring it to room temperature and sear the meat on high heat for four minutes on each side.
Flank steak or flank steak
Established: Located next to the diaphragm, it runs through the center of the animal.
What to look for: Similar to the stringy texture of tripe, don’t be put off by its uneven nature. You want a thin, flat, nearly round piece of meat.
taste: The flavour is rich and slightly offal, as it is so close to the animal’s internal organs. This is the first choice for real meat lovers and was loved by those who went on holiday to France in the 90s. It is delicious with French fries and a glass of red wine.
How to cook: This will give you thin slices of meat that are very tender. Try to fry for two minutes on each side and add plenty of seasoning.
Flat Iron, Oyster Knife or Butler’s Steak
Established: On the shoulder blade.
What to look for: It should be cut against the grain, with a bit of fascia left – don’t let this put you off when buying, but cut it off before cooking.
taste: It will be a little hard and a little chewy, but the flavor (and the cheap price) makes up for it.
How to cook: Do not serve it more than rare. Due to its density, it will take slightly longer to cook, say eight minutes. Heat in a hot pan first, then lower the heat to ensure it is fully cooked.
Chateaubriand
Established: The tail of the fillet fish is the most expensive part of the butcher’s window.
What to look for: Thick cut steaks, uniform in size and good length.
taste: This is the perfect sharing steak. It’s as tender as a filet mignon, has the flavor of a sirloin steak, without the buttery, meaty flavor and texture when cooked properly.
How to cook: It’s quite lean so it’s better with lots of butter. Heat the pan and fry it on all sides. As it’s cylindrical, use tongs to hold it and make sure it’s golden brown on all sides. Bake in the oven at 180 degrees Celsius for 14 minutes and cut into two-inch rounds to serve.
