A Mother’s Destruction. Bunt’s Tea. Killing Sorrow. Rolling Me Into the Doghouse. Even if you’ve never tried gin, the fruity (and slightly unsettling) moniker that always accompanies this historic spirit should give you an idea of its reputation as a potent, addictive concoction that can trip up even the hardiest of tipplers.
Its bouncy nature may have been the reason for its early popularity – when steam was the only way to get through the 17th century, when scurvy was rampant and people were dumping toilet waste into the streets – but these days gin is more than just a way to get drunk. In fact, a myriad of “craft gin” producers have emerged in recent years, producing small batches of botanically-rich concoctions in microdistilleries around the world.
Ideally, you’d learn all about this remarkable little tipple by seeking out these artisanal producers and tasting all the gins they have to offer. Hospitals don’t really hand out new livers, though. So to keep you one step ahead, here’s everything you need to know, condensed into a handy swashbuckling guide.
The History of Gin
Any discussion of gin’s rise and fall in popularity should begin with its historical origins, which began not as a Friday night drink but as a healing ointment.
Made from juniper berries (which were thought to have medicinal properties as early as the 11th century), the Dutch took the traditional recipe of distilling juniper berries, mixed it with malt or wine, and named it “geneva,” short for the French word “genévrier” (juniper). Gin was born.
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The concoction was used to ward off disease and eventually made its way to England, where Geneva became known simply as gin. Here it began to gain popularity among a wider population, becoming a preferred drink rather than just a salve. It was later brought to the tropics by British sailors, where it was used to mask the bitter taste of an anti-malarial drug called quinine, which was dissolved in quinine water. Thus, we get the gin and tonic we know and love today (a little over the top).
Types of Gin
The gin craze shows no signs of abating – and with craft gin distilleries popping up all over the place, the drink is constantly being reinvented, both by drinkers and brewers. Luckily, that means there’s no right or wrong way to imbibe the nation’s favourite tipple. But what’s the difference between an Old Tom, London Dry, Plymouth and still gin?
“The only thing that makes gin gin is juniper, that’s the main flavour,” says Adam Ellesmere, the “Minister of Fun” at London micro-distillery Sipsmith. “For 270 years of London gin, cocktails have been based on London Dry Gin, which is very juniper with a hint of spice, cinnamon and pink peppercorns, and citrus on the finish.”
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Surprisingly, it’s distilled from neutral grain alcohol. Making gin is like flavored vodka, except the botanicals are always natural. Typically, “stilled” gins (sometimes called “one-shot” gins) are the most traditional, laborious and expensive. These gins require distilling the grain mash along with the juniper berries. Industrial gin makers (i.e. not craft gin makers) add juniper berries when they re-distill the neutral spirit, while compound gin (or bathtub gin) combines a neutral base spirit with juniper berries. Basically Prohibition style.
London Dry Gin
Today, most “London” gins are as authentic as Don Cheadle’s accent in Ocean’s Eleven. London Dry Gin doesn’t refer to a spirit made specifically in the capital (or even in England), but is simply a type of gin. To be called London Dry Gin, the gin must be at least 37.5% juniper and must be made entirely of natural ingredients, with no flavoring or coloring added after distillation.
Old Tom
Have a friend who makes his own gin? That’s Old Tom – a sweet gin that emerged with the Victorian gin craze. “There was a gin cartel war going on between Alexander Gordon and Charles Tanquyray, both vying for the position of the best gin producer in London,” says Elsmere. “They were both making variations of Old Tom. Tanquyray developed the best methods, stills and processes – to the point where he made a gin so good he didn’t need to add any sugar to it, and London Dry Gin was born.”
Plymouth Gin
Classic cocktails such as the typical gin and tonic or martini are made with London Dry Gin, which is made by distilling botanicals together with the spirit and is drunk straight from the still. As mentioned above, the so-called “dry gin” means that there are no added (artificial) flavorings, as all the flavors are natural botanicals. Plymouth Gin (unlike London Gin) must be brewed in Plymouth and is slightly less dry than London Dry Gin, as the proportion of root ingredients is higher, softening the taste of juniper berries and giving it an earthier feel.
Distilling gin
Still gin is made in a similar way to Plymouth gin, but flavourings are added after distillation (such as cucumber and rose petals in Hendrix’s case). The other is basic gin, such as supermarket own-brand, which is vodka with juniper berries and other botanicals that are not distilled with the spirit.
What is the best gin?
With new brands launching almost every week, it can be hard to know how to weed through the crowd and find your dream gin. However, there are a few things to look out for that will make your search for a gin a little easier.
It’s important not to always assume that more expensive gin is better. The price of gin is determined by production, not quality. This is why supermarkets are often rated among the best gins in the world, despite being cheaper than online retailers and airport duty free shops.
Enrico Gonzato, assistant bar manager at London’s renowned five-star Claridge’s, points out that the distillation process varies by country, region and even town. “Botanicals and sources vary greatly, so it’s worth trying a local gin at a small distillery as you can see the traditions and special techniques,” he says. “There are 200 varieties of citrus fruit in Asia, but only 30 in Europe.”
For gin lovers, the best place to exercise your taste buds and build your knowledge is in a pub, but the countless gin festivals, fairs and microdistillery tours can be just as fruitful (and fun).
“Every new style or flavour opens up a whole new way of drinking gin,” says Elsmere. “Maybe with a different tonic, but with a different garnish, and suddenly you have a whole new flavour profile, even though it’s still a G&T.” So why not take a classic London Dry gin, like Sipsmith, and give it a try? Go citrusy with a slice of lime (rub it around the rim of the glass before squeezing in) and a classic Fever Tree tonic, or mix it with a slice of grapefruit and a shot of Fentiman’s Connoisseurs tonic.
This alone should prove that there is no set answer to which flavour is ‘best’, but some will suit your taste better than others. Take the time to work out whether you prefer florals (Adnams Copper House Dry Gin or Hendricks), citrus (Sipsmith Lemon Drizzle or Monkey 47) or herbal (Opihr Oriental Spiced London Dry). Higher-proof gins with more botanicals, like Sipsmith VJOP or Gin Mare, can even be enjoyed on the rocks.
Jake Rogers, spirits expert at TT Liquor, an east London bar, is a fan of Death’s Door, which is made from Washington Island, Wisconsin. The idea is that less is more. “They only use three botanicals and you can really pick out the flavours. Plus, at 47 per cent abv, it’s perfect for mixing,” he says. Another favourite is Old Curiosity’s Apothecary Rose Gin; it’s a pale pink rose and made by herbalists at Lowlands, a plant nursery outside Edinburgh, Scotland. “I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for something a little different,” he adds.
Also worthy of praise is newcomer Cabby’s Gin – a full-bodied, versatile gin made by a former taxi driver with a passion for distilling. “It’s delivered to you in a black cab whenever you order it, which is pretty cool,” says Rogers, who believes originality is key to finding a good gin. “There’s a lot of competition these days – obviously I’m still looking for quality of product and flavour, but I like gins to have their own unique niche or backstory. I need something that makes me say ‘wow, that’s unusual’.” It pays to read the labels when it comes to new gins, it seems.
Best Gin Cocktails
Gin is the most versatile spirit in cocktail making, and its unique herbal, spicy aroma makes it an ideal partner for many liqueurs, juices and other spirits. A good gin should be paired with a G&T and a martini, so keep a few classic gins in your cupboard to ensure you’re ready whenever cocktail time arrives.
Claridge’s Gonzato likes to open with a Tom Collins, a cocktail of sugar syrup, fresh lemon and gin (formerly Old Tom gin, hence the name). With soda, it’s refreshing and even better with a floral gin. “Another classic is the French 75, made with gin, champagne, sugar syrup and lemon juice,” he says. “It’s even better with a splash of vermouth at the end. It’s the perfect welcome drink.”
Less classic but equally simple is the Southside, which, according to Gonzato, is the closest thing to a gin daiquiri. “It’s full of flavour, made with gin, fresh lime juice and simple syrup, and about eight mint leaves – you just shake, strain and garnish.” Other classic gin cocktails include the Gin Martini (gin and vermouth), the Negroni (gin, vermouth and Campari) and the Gimlet (gin and lime). Try them all to find your favourite, and just have some aspirin ready for the next morning.
Teatulia Martini by Enrico Gonzalto
raw material
- 50ml Earl Grey Gin (Tanqueray 10 infused with Teatulia Earl Grey tea)
- 15ml Lemongrass Ambrato Vermouth (Ambrato Vermouth with fresh Teatulia lemongrass tea)
- 5ml Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto
How to enjoy
- Martini Glass
- Grapefruit peel
How to do it
- Chill your martini glass before mixing
- Mix 50 ml gin with 15 ml absinthe and 5 ml bergamot
- Place all ingredients and ice in a cocktail shaker and stir.
- Strain and pour into a martini glass
- Garnish with a slice of grapefruit peel
